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Gucci’s Gothic Fall – For fall 2012, Gucci creative director Frida Giannini presented a darkly decadent collection of billowing gowns, relaxed suiting and lush coats for the first day of Milan Fashion Week. Slinky and sensuous silhouettes dominated the runway in moody hues of inky black, dark emerald, plum, burgundy and sapphire blue. Chiffon gowns brought a romantic touch to the dark palette. Luxurious materials of feathers, crushed velvet and leather also made an appearance. For the finale, Giannini sent out sheer dresses embellished with sparkling leaf shapes–a testament to the strong yet feminine spirit of autumn.
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Giles’ Imperfect Glamour – For fall 2012, designer Giles Deacon showcased glamorous looks with an imperfect edge for his namesake collection presented during London Fashion Week. The runway was dominated by menswear inspire looks such a modified tuxedo and frilly dresses embellished with feathers and burn-like patterns. As the show progressed, the tuxedo jackets gave way to form-fitting dresses featuring messy cut-outs almost as if a razor had been used on the fabric. Giles’ innovative take on classic shapes such as the hoop skirt or fish tail dress offered a thrilling view of the upcoming season.
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Ladylike Edge – Taking the slot as the final major show of New York Fashion Week, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa presented a mix of ladylike silhouettes with a modern edge for the label’s fall 2012 collection. Known for its minimal appeal, the new season focused on dramatic, hourglass shapes in hues of coral, black, wheat and ash grey. Lush materials of mohair, tweed, leather, wool and shearling were matched with metallic belts cinched at the waist. Beauty also coincided with the severe clothing as models took to the runway in slicked back hair and understated makeup.
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Ralph Lauren’s Dapper and Divine Fall – On the final day of New York Fashion Week, Ralph Lauren presented a fall 2012 collection of refined glamour inspired by English aristocrats in autumn hues of navy, black, grey, plum and gold accents. The first section focused on menswear inspired pantsuits with dapper tailoring and newspaper boy hats softened by feminine curves and eclectic patterns. As the show progressed, the garments became more feminine featuring slinky gowns in long and fluid shapes of satin and velvet. A bit of glitz appeared in the form of sparkling sequins and ostrich feathers, culminating in a stunning finale gown of gold lamé worn by model Olga Sherer.
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Proenza Schouler’s Cool Woman – After spring’s secretarial inspired fashion, Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough focused on modern, Japanese inspired silhouettes for fall 2012. Models hit the runway in androgynous shapes with asymmetrical necklines and skin-baring hemlines. A color palette of pure white graduated into electric blue, burgundy and crimson red hues matched with Eastern patterns. A story of contrast, Proenza’s protagonist was elegant yet sporty, modern yet classic, youthful yet mature for the new season.
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Sui’s Delightful Fall – Anna Sui continued to reign as one of New York Fashion Week’s most whimsical designers with her fall 2012 collection featuring playful prints, youthful shapes and owl caps. Overlooking the more quirky elements, however, the showing also delivered solid fashion featuring divine color and fabric combinations ranging from fuchsia silks to olive-green velvets. Light layers with a hint of 60′s flavor dominated the runway with large kaftans, tweed skirts and faux fur coats.
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