Old cut diamonds are antique diamonds shaped before modern cutting techniques. Unlike today’s diamonds, which are cut for maximum sparkle under bright lights, these were designed to glow beautifully in candlelight. Their facets are larger, and their shapes are often less precise, giving the ring styles a soft, romantic look.
Common old cuts include the old mine cut, the old European cut, and the rose cut. Because these diamonds were hand-cut, each one is unique. Today, there’s a growing popularity for old cut lab-grown diamonds, which offer the charm of vintage shapes combined with modern sustainability and affordability.
Common Types of Old Cut Diamonds
Old cut diamonds come in several distinct shapes, each reflecting the craftsmanship of its time. Diamond cutting began in the 15th century with the point cut, a simple shape meant to preserve as much weight as possible.
One of the oldest diamond styles, the rose cut, dates back to the 16th century. It has a flat base with triangular facets forming a domed top, producing a soft, subtle sparkle. Its delicate, antique look makes it a favorite in vintage jewelry designs.
The old mine cut, popular in the 18th century, has a cushion-like shape with a small table, high crown, and deep pavilion.
By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the old European cut became the next evolution. This rounder shape featured a larger table and better symmetry, creating more light reflection and paving the way for the modern round brilliant cut.
Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Cut Diamond
A modern round brilliant cut diamond evolved from old cut diamonds like the old European cut, and it features five main parts. At the top is the table, a flat, polished surface that lets light in. Around this sits the crown, angled with facets directing the light inward.
The widest area, called the girdle, separates the crown from the lower half and provides strength. Below the girdle is the pavilion, whose facets reflect and bounce light upward, creating brilliance.
At the bottom tip is the culet, a small facet or point that protects the diamond. Together, these parts create the intense sparkle associated with today’s round diamond cuts that were invented by Marcel Tolkowsky.
Key Differences Between Old & Modern Cut Diamonds
Old and modern diamond cuts differ in several ways. Old diamonds were cut by hand, making each one unique.
They have fewer, larger facets that create a softer sparkle designed for candlelight. Modern diamonds are machine-cut and have many small facets, making them brighter and more sparkly under electric lights.
Another difference is symmetry. Old diamonds often have uneven shapes that look romantic and less perfect. Modern diamonds have precise, even shapes.
The culet is another key difference. Old diamonds often have a large culet at the bottom, sometimes visible as a small circle or hole. Modern gemstones typically have a very small or no culet, giving them a sharper, more polished look.
Revival in Modern Jewelry
Old cut diamonds are making a comeback in modern jewelry as more people appreciate their unique charm and timeless appeal. The cushion cut is a version of this style. It features soft, rounded edges that resemble a pillow shape. Its large, broad facets stand out.
The moval cut is also inspired by miner diamonds. It uniquely combines the elongated oval shape with pointed ends similar to a marquise. This creates a graceful, lengthening effect on the finger.
While many of these diamonds are vintage, jewelers today can recreate these antique-inspired cuts using modern techniques. This allows for the beauty of old-world craftsmanship while improving symmetry and brilliance.
